Rule Brittania

It is with very mixed emotions that Rita and I leave Edinburgh for Kassel as our experiences in Britain have really impressed us.  We are very much looking forward to seeing Rita’s parents but it means the adventure through Great Britain is over.  England and Scotland have definitely exceeded   expectations.  We knew there would be a lot of history to see and we were not disappointed.  Windsor, Cambridge, Bath, Blenheim Palace, York and Edinburgh were all historic gems.  But for such a small Island (you can put 4.5 Great Britain's into BC) with a population of 60 million (BC would need to have a population of 250 million to match its density) we were amazed at the amount of unspoilt terrain and scenery we experienced. The majestic white cliffs of Beachy Head; quaint, hidden harbours in Cornwall; fairy-tale villages in the Cotswolds; nature’s lush, green playground in The Lake District along with the rugged, isolated and moody countryside of Scotland all managed to inspire and amaze us.  There was also so much more we wanted to see and do, including spending more than an afternoon in Wales and touring Ireland, that we will definitely return to the wonderfully diverse British Isles.

A Little East Neuk

 The fishing village of Anstruther stretches out along its harbour

 Crossing causeway of a small cove during low tide with retaing seawall and houses in the background

Old house encrusted with thousands of seashells in intricate designs

New section of tiny Cellardyke Harbour with the original older section on the right

A few kilometers south of St. Andrews lies East Neuk (pronounced "nook"), a collection of small fishing villages hugging the coast.  We did not have a lot of time so we focussed on the main village of Anstruther.  We parked at the top of a hill and walked down to the village that stretches along and around its harbour.  It was low tide when we arrived and so we were able to cross a small cove via a stone pathway that lead to some of the older houses in the village.  Unfortunately, we had eaten lunch in St. Andrews as Anstruther's main claim to fame these days is its fish and chips.  The village "chippies" are regularly awarded the prestigious "UK Fish and Chip Shop of the Year" award.  People have definitaly taken notice as all the Fish and Chip shops we saw had long lineups.  After strolling through the main part of the village we followed a narrow street that paralled the ocean for a couple of kilometers and ended up at tiny Cellardyke harbour originally built in 1452 by a group of Dutch dyke builders.  You can clearly see the original section of the harbour's retaining wall as the Dutch laid the stones horizontally instead of vertically, the tradional way in the UK.  We headed back to our car as we needed to get back to Edinburgh and start packing for our noon flight to Germany in the morning.

The Home of Golf

 Putting out on The Old Course 18th hole with Clubhouse and West Sands beach in the background

With a minimum handicap of 24 required, 130 pounds ($200 Cdn) plus caddie to play and a tee time lottery system, this could be my only chance to cross over the Swilken Burn Bridge at The Old Course

This tranquilspot has a very grissly past as it used to be called "Witches Lake" due to all the people that were pushed off the cliffs to a horrible death on suspicion of being witches

St. Salvator's College and Chapel (dating from 1450) with it's grass "quad" is the heart of St. Andrews University where graduation ceremonies are held every July

St. Andrews Castle was built in the late 12th century as a home for the powerful Cardinals of St. Andrews Cathedral and destroyed by Protestants during the Scottish Reformation

It was the arrival of the bones of St. Andrew the Apostle that gave the town it`s name and created large pilgrimages.  St. Andrew`s Cathedral, the largest in Scotland, was built to accommodate the increasing numbers of pilgrims.  It took 150 years to build and was consecrated in 1318  



After snapping pictures of Edinburgh showered in sunshine we headed out for St. Andrews, a 90 minute drive north of here.  It has an interesting history.  In the middle ages St. Andrews was the religious capital of the country and one of the most important pilgrimage sights in all Christondom.  In 1553 the first recorded game of golf was played on the Old Course and is now one of the most desirable pilgrimages a golfer can make. But first and foremost St. Andrews is a university town as it is home to  Scotlands most prestigious university, founded in 141, and attended by Prince William and Kate Middleton which generates the current mass pilgramage of Royal watchers we see today.  St. Andrews is a very pleasant, compact town that still retains is medieval street plan (all roads lead to the Cathedral) allowing all the sights to be within an easy walk of each other.  The Old Course and the 2 mile (3km) long West Sands beach are at one end of town with the Cathedral ruins at the other end leaving the charming village and university in the middle.  Being a golfer, we had to start our tour of St. Andrews at the Old Course.  Along with many other tourists we watched as the golfers teed-off from the 1st hole.    I could imagine the pressure these golfers must be under just before they hit their first drive onto the fabled Old Course not only because of its history but also due to all of us tourists watching them.  We waited between foursomes to cross the 1st and 18th fairways and watched as golfers chipped onto the green and then putted out to end their round on the Old Course.  I even managed to walk over the famous Swilken Burn Bridge halfway down the 18th fairway.  It was great to see and walk a tiny bit of the course that started it all.  One day it would be wonderful to come back and play it.  This took quite a bit of our time as we walked around quite a bit and I was taking lot's of pictures.  I was very impressed and thankful that Rita, who has absolutely no interest in golf, was so patient with me.  We finally moved onto touring the many other interesting sights that make up St. Andrews (including the dormitory where Prince William stayed during his university days).  As the hot temperatures and sunshine were staying with us, we decided to check out a little fishing village we had read about.

Edinburgh in Sunshine

Rita woke me up around 7:00am to take a look outside.  It was a beautiful sunny morning without a cloud in the sky.  What a difference from yesterday.  Quickly got dressed and headed out the door with my camera to recapture the images of the Old City in a better light.  Another reason why Edinburgh is such a great tourist town, most of the attractions are within easy walking distance of each other.

 Fortified Edinburgh Castle sits atop a protective rock as seen from the beautiful Princess St. Gardens

 Old Town Edinburgh skyline as seen from New Town

 Victoria Street shops steeply bend up from Grassmarket and connects to the Royal Mile

Last Drop Pub is named after the location where hundreds of public hangings took place up to 1784.    People would rent out the windows for the best views of the hangings.  The building itself is one of the oldest in Edinburgh as it was built from castle rubble

Edinburgh Hiking

Heading up into the mist on the trail to the top of Crow Hill

 Standing at the top of Crow Hill enveloped by fog

 Heading down from Crow Hill and looking through the mist at Edinburgh below

Looking down at Arthur's Seat and Edinburgh from the top of Nether Hill

Rita is about to enjoy her first taste of Haggis at the Witchery Restaurant

The weather was not good today as it rained for most of the day.  We were still determined to get out and go for a hike up two of the larger hills that we saw when we went up Arthur's Seat yesterday.  Our first hike took us to the top of Crow Hill, the highest in the Edinburgh area.  The weather closed in on us as we got to the top but not enough to stop us from hiking up another trail that took us to the top of Nether Hill.  We were quite wet so we headed home for a hot shower and a glass of wine before heading out for what we hoped would be a very nice dinner at The Witchery Restaurant.  It's located  in a 16th century building and the interior decor reflects that era.  We arrived and were escorted to our table and started reading the menus.  The maitre d' came over and asked if we would do him a favour by moving to another table as he had a party of three just arriving and our table was larger than their normal two person table.  I liked where we were sitting and was a bit slow in responding and I think my body language also was implying I was not happy moving.  But Rita was ever so accommodating and immediately said "no problem, of course we would not mind moving".  We moved to our new, smaller table and a few minutes later the maitre d' returned with two glasses of champagne as a thank you for moving.  He then explained that the party had left as the process had taken too long.  I asked if our original table was free again and if it was could we move back as I preferred that table.  It was and so we ended up where we started but with two glasses of complimentary champagne.  A great start to the evening and it just got better as the food was delicious.  Rita and I had promised ourselves that we would try the Scottish delicacy haggis before we left Scotland and we ordered it as our appetizer.  We both admitted that it tasted better than expected but not something we would order on a regular basis. We ended the meal with a couple of very nice single malt scotch's that we had not tasted before.    The maitre d' came over again and asked where we were from and he told us he was also Canadian and came over to Edinburgh 10 years ago following his girlfriend and stayed.  We had a very nice chat about Canada, love and how he had picked up a very good Scottish accent.  It was the perfect end to a great day all around and it just goes to show that you can have a good time even if the sun does not shine.

Rita Speaks II

Working the computer in the drawing room at the MacKinnon Country House in the Isle of Skye



Our trip is winding down, it has to be, as we ran out of our two boxes of "Costco imported healthy Granola bars" in Inverness. That means I have to scramble for a snack between breakfast and lunch. Lunch most of the time happens either too late for my blood sugar or not at all, so I really relied on those granola bars. The trip is not completely over yet, but since I have the chance, here is my second  "Rita speaks".  It's funny, when hitting the last week of a trip, no matter where we are, I start thinking of packing up and going home. But it's also a time to reflect back to the fabulous time we have had and are still having in England and Scotland. We stayed in twelve different accommodations and were pleased with all our selections. I had to figure out eight different types of washing machine's, some were washer/dryer combinations and in two cases made no sense at all but we ended up with clean laundry. I really enjoyed the long, beautiful walks in the different countrysides and along the coasts. Geoff has driven us from down south all the way up north, on highways, motorways and most exiting single lane roads - a total of over 5,000 km. We both celebrated our birthdays, mine in England, Geoff's in Scotland, with wonderful meals. I have to say....."enough of the myth that food in the UK is bad", we have had many really wonderful meals and of course great Fish & Chips. I tried haggis for the first time in Edinburgh, various types of local beer, cider and of course we had tastings of Single Malt Scotch. The challenge I am faced with now is to reduce our luggage to accommodate the various bottles of Scotch that Geoff bought. Good opportunity to get rid of clothes that I am tired off after eight weeks of wearing and buy new when back in Canada - Fantastic! If asked what was the best part of the trip? It would be a real hard question because I am in awe of this beautiful and versatile country. I loved Beachy Head, Cornwall, The Lake District and of course beautiful Scotland. Maybe I was so fascinated by it all because I really did not know what to expect and was completely taken by a very, very positive surprise.

Before heading home to Vancouver, we  have one last stop. Tomorrow we are leaving for Kassel to spend a week with my parents. My Mom is looking forward to spoiling Geoff and I am all over that as I can do with the break!

At the sumit of Arthur's Seat just outside Edinburgh

Birthday Boy

Celebrating number 64 with Champagne High Tea at the Balmoral Hotel with my wonderful partner


Rita really looked after me today and showed that someone still loved me and needed me when I'm 64.  After a great day of touring Edinburgh and going for a wonderful walk up Arthur's Seat we headed back home to change.  Rita had made a reservation at one of the most prestigious hotels in Edinburgh, The Balmoral, for Champagne High Tea.  As it states, we started off with a glass of champagne and then the three tier high tea tray arrives with finger sandwiches, scones and petit fours all washed down with tea served from a silver tea pot.  To add to the calorie count I was presented with a raspberry/chocolate tart with a candle in the centre.  Very posh, very high calorie and very filling.  We made our way home and before going to bed I had the pleasure of reading several happy birthday emails from family and friends.  It was a day to remember. Thank You, my darling Rita.

The Royal Mile and Beyond

One of the pipe and drum bands marching down the Royal Mile celebrating Armed Forces Day

Tolbooth Church completed in 1844 has the highest spire in Edinburgh at 240 ft (73m) and is now The Hub, Edinburgh's Festival Ticket and Information Centre

The Sir Walter Scott Monument as seen through Advocates Close, a small lane off the Royal Mile

Almost at the top of Arthur's Seat, the 822 ft (274m) remains of an extinct Volcano

View of Edinburgh from the summit of Arthur's Seat

 The Palace of Holyroodhouse completed in 1501 is the official Scottish residence of the Queen. Prior to 1707 it was the home to Scottish Royalty as they only used Edinburgh Castle in case of emergencies



Edinburgh has been the official capital since the 15th century and many also consider it to be the historical and cultural capitol of Scotland as well.  It was once a medieval powerhouse and the most crowded city in Europe.  During the 16th & 17th centuries it was famed for its many "skyscrapers"  (up to 14 stories) and its filth (known at the time as "Auld Reekie").  It's most famous street is the Royal Mile which stretches between Edinburgh Castle at the top and Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom.  In between thousands of tourist roam the cobbled streets shopping, eating and admiring the 16th and 17th century buildings.  The Edinburgh that tourists want to see is all within easy walking distance and it definitely has a fun and funky feel.  The area is also surrounded by hills which offer great walks and views of the city.  The morning was overcast but by the early afternoon the sun came out and it turned out to be a beautiful day. Since our apartment is just below the castle, we headed up the stairs to the start of the Royal Mile and stumbled onto a huge parade celebrating the Scottish armed forces.  Dozens of bagpipe and drum bands were marching down the Royal Mile and the music was pulsating through our eardrums and leaving goosebumps on our arms.   After the parade we headed off for some lunch and then headed down the end of the Royal Mile and the Palace of Holyroodhouse.  Right behind the Palace was the trail to one of the hills that the locals call Arthur's Seat. It offered some fantastic views of the city and we thoroughly enjoyed the exercise.  We headed home to change as Rita had arranged a nice surprise for me.  

Back to the Motherland

Beautiful Longsands beach where professional surfing competitions are regularly held

 My cousin Michael, June, my cousin Wayne and myself on the promenade above Longsands beach

The half mile long Tynemouth pier and Lighthouse finished in 1895 with South Shields Lighthouse and Pier, which is a mile long, in the background

7th century Benedictine Priory ruins (on the left) with its 9th century fortified wall and castle, added to protect it from further attacks by the Danes, sits above King Edwards Bay

Rita bravely dipping her tootsies into the cold North Sea

  My full of life Aunt Mooly in her living room

Got up and out of the apartment early today as we were heading out of Edinburgh for a 2.5 hr. drive to my mother's birthplac in northern England to visit her sister and my two cousins.  Tynemouth is a pretty seaside town situated at the mouth of the River Tyne, not too far from Newcastle.  I have been there several times but it's a first for Rita.  We arrived earlier than our planned meeting so we had a delightful lunch at the Grand Hotel that overlooks the sea.  Had a lovely get together in the pub with my cousins Michael and Wayne and his wife June.  Went for a very nice walk along Tynemouth Pier before heading over to see my Aunt Mooly who is 90 and does not like to leave her house.  It was a wonderful visit and she definitely still has that mischievous sparkle in her eyes that I remembered the last time I visited her 15 years ago.  As it was getting late we said our goodbyes and headed back to Edinburgh.  It was a wonderful visit with Mooly, Michael, Wayne and June and I was happy that Rita was able to meet some more of my English family.  

The Highlands to the Lowlands

 Edradour Distillery, established in 1825 and named after the county where it's located

 The two copper stills used to process the "wash" into the raw spirits that go into oak casks for 10 years

After the barley has been soaked in the Mash Tun it's extracted and used as cattle feed by local farmers

On the trail back to the town of Pitlochry with a sample of Edradour Scotch

The view of Edinburgh Castle and Grassmarket from our 2nd floor apartment window

To break up the 3.5 hour drive from Inverness to Edinburgh we decided to stop in Pitlochry as it is home to Edradour Distillery, the smallest in Scotland.  The distillery is located on a pleasant Scottish hillside 2.5 miles outside of Pitlochry.  As the weather was nice and we were going to be in the car for most of the day we decided to walk.  Its mostly uphill to get to the distillery but that meant it was mostly downhill after we had sampled some of their scotch.  The distillery takes up several buildings and they do as much of the whisky making process as possible by hand.  Amazingly they only have 3 full time employees that are involved in the whisky making process.  We signed up for the tour with another couple and had the pleasure of a big, burly, plain-speaking Scotsman as guide.  It took about half the tour to start warming up to him.  He started out by maligning Americans because he thought we were from the US after hearing our accents.  When told we were from Vancouver, he started including tidbits about Honcouver into his presentation.  However, it was the most informative tour we have had out of the three distilleries visited.  And we were allowed to take pictures.  The distillery produces 100,000 litres a year, which is less that what the Glenfiddich distillery produces in a week.  After the tour we headed back down to the car and made our way to Edinburgh.  We are located in the heart of the old town which means everything we want to see is withing walking distance .  Our self catering apartment is on the 2nd floor and has a wonderful view of the castle.  Tomorrow we will start to explore the city.     

Northern Highland Fishing Villages

The ex fishing community of Sandsend has a huge sandy beach and some very cute cottages

Rita walking Sandsends beach where surfers ride the waves instead of fishermen 

The still active fishing village of McDuff also has a long beach but is not very attractive up close

The stunning village of Gardenstown is sandwiched between massive cliffs into a protective cove

Gardenstown Harbour with some of the local water fishing boats

Rita on the trail that goes from Gardenstown to the tiny community of Covie

The 68 homes in Crovie are now mostly rented to tourists who are looking for some peace and quiet
 

 A small sample of the stunning countryside along the Scottish Highlands northern coastline

Today we went further off the beaten track and visited several fishing communities strung along the Scottish Highlands northern coast (Banff, McDuff, Sandsend, Gardenstown, Crovie and Fraserburg).  You won't find any souvenir shops here and half of them are so small they do not have restaurants or grocery stores.  The big bonus was the spectacular scenery and Rita and I wondered all day why this area is not that well promoted as a tourist destination.  However, we thoroughly enjoyed walking on pristine beaches or picturesque trails all by ourselves or strolled through the communities with hardly a soul around.  It was a great way to end our time in the wilds of Scotland for tomorrow we head for the big city of Edinburgh.    

Isle of Skye to Inverness

 Eileen Donan Castle situated on a small island in a sea Loch is home to the MacRea family

 Urquhart Castle belonged to the Grant clan and they blew it up to keep the Jacobites from taking it

 Inverness Castle from the River Ness

Rita on her way home with full grocery bags crossing the Ness Bridge


Departed our B&B in Kyleakin under cloudy skies and took the easiest way off Skye by driving to the mainland over the Sky Bridge and headed to Inverness on major roadways.  Our first stop is to one of Scotland's most photographed castles situated along the main road from Isle of Skye and Loch Ness, Eileen Donan Castle.  Heading over a pass and into a huge valley called the Great Glen we came upon world famous Loch Ness.  Loch Ness is 23 miles long, less than a mile wide, the third deepest lake in Europe at 745 feet (250 m) and containing more water than in all the freshwater  bodies of England and Wales combined.  This is why "Nessie", the Loch Ness Monster is so hard to find.   We stopped at the Urquhart Castle ruins which sits atop a volcanic rock with great views of the entire lake before entering Inverness.  Situated on the River Ness, Inverness is the only city in the north of Scotland and has no real interesting sights of its own but is very well situated to explore the northern Highland region.  As we have been in B&B's for our last two stops, Rita wanted to find a self catering apartment to stay in so we could do laundry.  As we were only staying here for two nights this proved very difficult but Rita managed to find a place that was not only in the centre of the city with underground parking but also very clean, spacious and modern.  We unpacked, did laundry, went for groceries, had a wonderful home made Greek salad dinner and planned for tomorrow.